Wednesday, June 15, 2022

Ending the Bustier Odyssey

 So I altered the folds made in the previous waist cincher and traced around all of the pattern pieces, then got the original size 14 complete pattern and added the upper sections back on and jumped straight into sewing what I hoped would be the final version of the complete thing

It has issues, but, for something that goes together so fast, and that I probably won't ever seriously wear, it's good!

The outer fabric is the same cotton? rayon? nylon? blend brocade I used for one of the earlier waist cinchers

 

 as is the lining

 

 The cotton chintz lining fabric is much easier to photograph, though      

 

I did make a little effort to get the bias tapes somewhat even on either side of the zipper 


I know zippers have locking mechanisms inside the pull that are meant to keep them from unzipping at unwanted times


but I decided to add a bit of insurance on the top of this zipper and add a hook and eye closure  

and, yep, that bias tape edge stitching from the outside does not remotely line up with the bias tape edge on the inside.  That's why I tend to sew things that wrap around like that (including shirt front button plackets) on the inside first, then wrap around to the outside, where I can stitch with impunity, because it doesn't matter where the stitches end up on the inside.

I stitched the seam allowances/boning casing to the side at the back seam, instead of applying a separate piece of fabric and stitching on both sides of the seam.

I also figured out that a lovely green but very synthetic dobby I'd had for years, then decided was too synthetic to use, put aside to donate, decided I'd give it another chance, then decided nope too synthetic and I'd donate it anyway, would make a fairly sturdy strength layer. I acknowledge it probably won't breathe at all, but I probably won't be inclined to wear such a close fitting layer until it's cooler outside, anyway.

I did once again bother to switch thread for the lining, and used ivory in the bobbin for the top stitching around the zipper.


Alas, I didn't have enough 18" cable ties left to put any boning on either side of the zipper.  I had to split the long cable ties lengthwise to use in the other long boning channels, so I was gambling things would be otherwise supported enough to keep the zipper from slumping.  Also, it shouldn't be too much trouble to pick out the stitching and add appropriate lengths of boning if I ever get any.

So there we are!  I actually tweaked the fit of something!  And I mostly only did it because it's so fast and easy to make!  Will I ever make it again?  No idea!  But it'll be easy if I do!







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