Tuesday, June 14, 2022

Ace Cinch

 I can't remember if I made any adjustments between the previous waist cincher and this one, but...this one ended up a bit small--not in a "help I can't wear this" way, but more in a "Oops All Drag Lines" way


 But it still has the fun built in pun of being able to say it's ace.

The colors aren't Pantone Perfect because I used fabric that was already in my stash. I'd say the intention is obvious, to people who know.

And it doesn't help that digital imaging has problems with purples.

To make things easy, I used black thread throughout.

The strength layer is the same interior decorating weight print used in the previous cincher, but not under the white panel, because the print still showed through two layers of white.  I cut a third layer of white and hoped the extra layers of broadcloth would be equivalent to a single layer of something sturdier.  I don't think I can blame all the drag lines on that, though.

The zipper is a cooler purple, but I was working entirely out of my stash, no room to be picky.

(And my stash does have a large number of heavy separating zippers, thanks to my Wawak addiction.)

Oh, I sewed all of the zippers, in this spate of waist cinchers and bustiers, by using the magnetic seam guide to make sure the stitching would be right at 5/8", and made sure the zipper teeth were right against the zipper foot, with fabric extending to the right of the edge of the zipper tape.  These have some of the most consistently even zipper stitching I've done. 

The bias tape fabric shows up again as the back and lining. (If that fabric had turned out to be all natural, I would have saved the rest of it to make a shirt.  But.  I don't like wearing synthetics in shirts, so that freed the fabric for more waist cinchers.)

I did stitch once through all layers in the lining of all of these, too, nominally for strength, but mostly so I wouldn't have to press anything.  I folded all the lining seam allowances toward the center front, opposite of the upper layer seam allowances.  Not sure if I mentioned that the strength layer is flatlined to the outer layer, too, so the boning channels are several layers thick.

This last photo might be the most accurate in terms of showing the differences between the purples.

Oh, and, it also displays the way I stitched the zipper to the outer layers first, then stitched the lining separately, and things didn't always line up. Not that anyone will ever see it.

So, I looked at how tight this one fit (again, it's not uncomfortably tight, it's just all wrinkly drag lines) and altered the folds made to adjust fit and went ahead with one more...



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