Friday, May 6, 2022

Retro Gray

 That lot of vintage patterns I got about year ago had been found because it included a specific pattern that I'd had before, Simplicity 5903 from 1973

And I just used it!

As a "How To Sew" pattern, there are extra instructions regarding basic sewing procedures--it's setting in sleeves here--so that doesn't necessarily mean the pattern overall is what would be considered easy.

The biggest 'not so easy' issue is this center point in the empire seam.  I think it took three tries to get it acceptable.

And on my Perpetual Vexation list is peter pan collars.  Using the magnetic seam guide helped get the curves sewn evenly, but I probably should have made more notches in the seam allowance, to help the turned and pressed collar edge be smoother.

(Fortunately, it's not as flat as it appears in the photo.)

I applied the seam bands in my usual backwards way, pressing it in half and then pressing the un-notched edge under before sewing to the inside of the sleeve opening, then flipping the pressed edge around to encase that seam allowance and edge stitching from the outside.

I did sew the side seams at 3/8" instead of 5/8", and remembered to sew the sleeve cuff side seams the same, and that extra bit of clearance is appreciated. (The way this dress treats my current waist configuration...not so much. But. I knew that could be an issue, and things can change, both in patterns and bodies.)

Kept the white thread in the serger and did a lot of proper pressing and not much (for me) "instead of pressing" top stitching.

The hem was pressed up 2¼" as instructed and then blind stitched with my machine's improvisational needle zigzag control (yeah, still haven't figured out what's wrong with the cam selector.)

I set the zipper centered instead of lapped.

There are no horizontal seams in the back to mirror the front empire seam, but the back tie breaks up the otherwise plain expanse of fabric.

I got several yards of this fabric from a thrift store, and have used it for other projects previously: adding a skirt to a commercial shirt for a school outing, and for one of the shift dresses I made a few years ago, and for the cat face block patchwork project I designed.  There's still a little left!


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