Acanthus

Since I have black thread in the serger, I am making an effort to sew dark fabrics.  I chose a black and white acanthus scroll print and wanted to make yet another button up shirt.  I had a yard of it, so I figured I'd once again use the hacked Burda 7831.  I've made shirts from 7831 and a yard of fabric plus a bit more fabric for contrast on the front bands and collar assembly.

But.

I just didn't want to do contrasts this time.

I thought a but and realized I could do a variation...without the collar.

I borrowed the scoop neck shape from the fake McCall's 8197 variation of Burda 6401 and confidently cut the front and back, a bit less confidently cutting the sleeves and facings, and then hoping I could get enough length to make the front bands.  I did!

And yes I realize the pattern is busy enough to hide anything like a detail this shirt may have.

I know I could have constructed most of the shirt and sew the bands on as the last step before dealing with buttons, but I chose instead to apply the bands before sewing the shoulder seams, like I usually do with this basic shirt pattern.  That meant I sewed the front facings on for a few inches on either side of the center front opening, then let the rest of the facings flap free while I sewed on the front bands (after pressing up the lower hem.)

That meant I was able to capture the ends of the facings inside the front band.

I always sew the bands on right side of band to wrong side of front, with the front edge already pressed, then fold the bottom end of the band right sides together, with the seam allowances folded in, and stitch, before trimming and turning right side out.  I repeated that for the top of each band on this shirt, then edge stitched the pressed edge in place.

Since this is a bit of an experiment, I didn't want to use anything from my surprisingly small stash of black buttons, and the white buttons in large quantities were too stark.  I ended up going with dark gray pearl buttons. 

Everything else about the construction of this is completely standard for me and this pattern.

Sleeve hems were pressed before construction started, then unrolled to sew the seams, and rolled back up to stitch.

As were the lower hems.

I know it's "incorrect" but I do love being able to go right from sewing the side seams to sewing the hem, with only a bit of finger pressing between.

And the back!

I have been thinking of this print as Goth Camouflage.