Sunday, November 26, 2023

Black and White and Spiderweb

I cut sleeves from spiderweb lace for the snail shirt, but decided not to use them on that shirt.  This left me with spiderweb sleeves to use elsewhere

I thrifted several yards of the spiderweb lace from a regular thrift store many years ago, and have now used most of it, which was why I was determined to use the pieces I'd cut for the sleeves.  Can't let it go to waste!  And the black and white plaid came from the craft thrift store last year.  I knew there wasn't enough of it to make an entire shirt, and even this needed a lot of piecing to make work.

I was able to place the piecing seams in areas that won't be seen while the garment is being worn, and, of course, I'm going to highlight those areas now.

There was enough fabric to cut one collar stand whole, and the other needed to be pieced; I placed that one on the inside.  Aligning the stripes was not an option.

The inside of the bottom edge of the lower front band needed an added piece, although the other side got away with just a missing corner that was small enough to stay within the seam allowances.  I had already hoped I could cut the bands on the bias, so I wouldn't have to think hard about aligning the graphic elements.  It turned out that not only could I cut the front bands on the bias, but I actually had to, to eke out enough length from what was left after cutting the front and back pieces.  So: yay.

I thought I was in the clear, but then i remembered: oh, right.  Cuffs.

The diagonal cut front bands meant I had to add some corners back into the cuffs.

I was able to position the extra seams on the inside of the cuffs and under the button overlap.

It's not pretty, but no-one will be looking.

I cut the body and collar pieces from my modified Burda 7831, and the sleeves were re-cut with McCall's 5675, which is where the cuffs are from, too.  The McCall's sleevecap fit into the Burda armscye with zero ease, which is always appreciated.

The sleeves I had cut for the other shirt featured a flatter cap and much narrower wrist than the McCall's pattern. I was able to cut the McCall's sleevecap and full width of the upper sleeve, but had to make it significantly narrower at the cuffs.

I still have white thread in my serger, so I folded the seam allowances to the inside and edge stitched, in hopes of keeping all that white thread hidden.

I did french seams on the sleeves, which means, yes, I set them in in the round instead of flat.  Aversion to changing serger thread will do that to me.

The darts on the back are more gentle than the front darts, so the back looks relatively featureless.

I have not yet tried this on, due to it being a light and summery garment while the weather is what passes for winter here.  Spiderwebs are a spring and summer thing, right?

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