Friday, August 4, 2023

Bats in Phrase

 I was planning to move on from modified Burda 7831 button up shirts, but I got into my fabric stash and realized this Halloween print cotton was a nice shirt weight, so: time for another hacked Burda


I'll start with a little contrast in the number of screen print inks involved with this one: only 5, compared to the 18 of the previous shirt.  I do wonder what the missing color would have been--something paler than the yellow, and applied before the final layer of background gray.  Maybe some versions of this had bats with colorful--or even glow in the dark--eyes?

There was one yard and 6" of this, and it was a more generous kind of 45" wide than the previous shirt, so I was able to cut almost everything as it was intended, and all from the same fabric.  The only concession to the limited yardage was shortening the collar stand length by about a quarter inch on each end.

I did edit the pattern to make the back shoulders a bit less wide, since I hadn't been feeling successful easing the full width into the front shoulder width, and, also, I'm wearing the space cat shirt today and the shoulders are a bit bulgy.  The back shoulder seam width is still a bit wider than the front, but it's a difference that can be achieved with a gentle bias stretch.  

The neckline is also a touch wider now, but that wasn't really a problem, even with the shorter collar stand.  I did compensate a tiny bit by tapering the seam allowances to a half inch on the shortened ends.

All the rest of the construction went as is now normal for this shirt configuration.  It was very nice to be able to cut and assemble the sleeves the way they're supposed to be.

I considered faux horn buttons again, but decided to see what I had in gray. There were five of these, so that made them perfect.

I am amused that this, with its front bands and two piece collar, but no yoke, is the easy shirt pattern for me now.  I guess it was 18 years ago when I first found a shirt pattern that really clicked with me--a shirt pattern with faced openings and a one piece collar (and no yoke.)  I couldn't dream of finding more complicated shirt construction easy back then.  I'm glad I have indeed improved over those 18 years.

Of course I'd happily do a yoke in these little loud shirts, too, but that would probably make them a lot harder to squeeze out of limited yardage.


I think now I'm ready to put this pattern away and move on to other things.  Maybe.

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