Sunday, January 8, 2023

Batty

 I have a list of projects I want to sew eventually, but didn't feel like working on any of them yet (although the list did include the previous jacket, so it has been worked on already.  Just a little.)  I still wanted to sew something, and decided to finally see how much of a shirt I could get out of the 3/4 yard of Halloween bat print interlock from Joann that's been in my stash for a few years.

Turns out I could get quite a bit of shirt out of it

This is once again a combination of New Look 6068 for the body and Kwik Sew 303 for the sleeves, with lessons learned from the last time I tried that combination.

I cut the body in size 10 and the sleeves in size 12--but!  I sewed the sleeves with the same 5/8" seam allowance as the rest of the shirt, instead of the ¼"seam allowance that vintage Kwik Sew wants.

I also had to make the sleeves a bit narrow to fit in the gap left between cutting the front and back pieces, and some of the seam allowances were encroached by areas missing from cutting those pieces.  I managed to squeeze the pattern piece in a way that left the sleeve cap full size, and, with the 5/8" seam, it fit beautifully into the New Look armscye.

As usual, this sleeve seam has not been pressed.

The New Look pattern calls for finishing the neckline with a facing, but I've never done that.  I figured I'd have to use a contrast knit for the neckline band, but there was just enough contiguous fabric left to cut the neckband from the bat knit.  I cut it about 2¼" wide, but I don't know how long--whatever was left on the center fold after cutting the sleeves.  It worked out just right.

I folded the hems at the machine and used the magnetic seam gauge to keep the depth even, and stitched twice to mimic a cover stitch.

I did all the construction on the lockstitch machine and serged seam allowances and hem edges purely so the insides would look better to me.

The reason I was able to eke a shirt with long sleeves out of this yardage was by doing a center back seam instead of cutting both the front and back on folds.

And I went ahead and aligned (more or less) the neckband seam with the center back seam (which is from view B of the New Look pattern, I didn't have to improvise that) instead of offsetting it behind a shoulder seam like I usually do.  

And yes of course I edge stitched around the band.  Gratuitous contour stitching is, after all, what I do.


Honesty time: I have not yet tried this on.  It's kinda chilly today and I'm dressed all toasty, so that can wait.  I'm confident it'll be fine.  Fairly confident. Next Day Edit: It is indeed fine.

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