Not Quite as Simple Sequins

Kwik Sew 3764 is a fairly easy pattern--not as easy as the previous shirt pattern, but still easy, even with the changes I made, like complicating the back and adding a lining and, of course, using a knit fabric covered with sequins

This is the as-is sequin fabric I got from Fabric Mart recently--I still haven't settled on which pattern I want to use for the Walmart mill end precut sequin fabric from last summer.  I'm holding out for figuring out what's just right for that one--for this one, though, I have so much of it that it doesn't feel so precious.  Plus, I already know that I like to use Kwik Sew 3764 with knits, and the cotton knit base of this fabric is more of an obviously drapey knit than the synthetic base of the pink sequin fabric.

Even with the sequins, this fabric is somewhat thin, so I wanted to add a lining.

I used the original back pattern piece, which is meant to cut two and sew a center back seam; I cut on the fold including the seam allowance, and used that to make tucks at the top and bottom of the back lining piece, after laying the original back facing pattern piece over it and drawing contours to figure out where to cut to make an edge to sew the back facing to.  I just think a lined jacket looks more finished inside if there's a separate back facing piece...when I remember.

I cut the front side lining pieces exactly the same as the shell front side pieces, and cut the sleeve lining pieces 5/8" shorter than the shell sleeves.

While I of course did my usual top stitching along major seams, I actually...pressed a lot of this.  Yes, even with the sequins--I used a wash cloth as a press cloth to protect the sequins, and the underlying cotton pressed impressively well.  I decided not even to top stitch around the cuffs.

The press cloth helped get sharp edges on the lapels and collar, and also helped keep the iron off of the plastic of the molded zipper, which is a simple thing I had never thought of before.

The zipper color is far from a perfect match, but it's more than acceptable with the red tones of the sequin purple.  I ordered this zipper and a more purple zipper from Wawak, figuring one of them would work with this fabric.

The purple button from my stash matches very well, as does the thread I ordered from Wawak with the hope that it would blend with this fabric. (I know, I know, this is a weird amount of planning for one of my projects.  It won't happen much, I promise.)  You can see the thread most prominently on the button hole

...which I have not cut open, because I don't want to risk cutting the threads holding the sequins, even if I use Fray Check.  I don't plan to close this jacket, so it's fine.

I also didn't want to risk cut threads around the pattern's welt zipper pockets (and also didn't, y'know, think about ordering zippers to use for those pockets), so I made side pockets.

I interfaced both the upper and under collars, and in retrospect probably should have interfaced the lower lapel as well as the upper/fold over lapel.  I also added strips of interfacing at the cuffs and along every otherwise un-interfaced edge of the fabric to which the zipper would be sewn.  I think it helped a lot, with how thin the base knit fabric is.

I did make the under collar from lining fabric, instead of shell fabric.  I didn't think the sequins would necessarily slide smoothly over themselves under there, and I have also made a modified under collar pattern piece cut in two pieces on the bias, which also didn't seem like something that would lend itself to being made from the sequin stuff.

You can see one of the modified back seams, adding a yoke at the top.  There are also panels on the sides, and they're exactly the same as the black knit version I made, so maybe a bit narrow.

Not that you can really see them through the sparkles.

 I used the size S pattern I traced off for the black knit jacket--with the back modifications, and also with the "going one size down on sleeves to get them to fit better into the armscyes of commercial patterns" hack--so the lining is a bit snug, since that size combination works best with knits.  I'm still very happy with how this jacket turned out, especially since it's a relatively low effort project--low stakes, too, because after making the previous shirt and this jacket, I still have three yards of this fabric left (so, if this had turned out terribly, there would have been a second chance...once I got over the disappointment. But there was no disappointment!)

The only question is: will I be able to wear this on a sunny day without hurting the eyes of everyone around...