Roll the Die: Varsity

Rolled a 6: Varsity

Which meant combining these patterns--the bomber jacket from New Look 6120 from 1999, and the "loose-fitting unlined baseball jacket" of Simplicity 8175 from 1987

and using up the fabrics left over from the two pairs of pants and the Carbuncle Gonk Split shirt I made for the kiddo.

It took a few improvised changes as I was cutting things out, but I made it work

 I mostly used the New Look pattern, borrowing the Simplicity's front button opening and facings instead of trying to rig up a button opening on my own.  I had also considered using the Simplicity entirely, but I absolutely did not have enough fabric left for that, so the New Look's more compact sizing won in that area.  To add the spacing for the buttons, I laid the front of the Simplicity over the New Look, aligning the center front marks.  I also laid it out so the lower extension was beyond the lower edge of the New Look pattern--the New Look has its waistband wrapping entirely around, which seemed like something that really wouldn't work well with buttons. 

I did cut the front in longer length offered by the New Look (before adding the extension), but couldn't quite get that to fit on the fabric when cutting the back, which I had to cut 1" shorter to make work.  Then I cut the front pieces 1" shorter as well.  I also cut the pockets shorter, but I can't remember if it was by an entire inch.

I did my usual approach to jacket pockets like this, cutting four of the inner pocket pieces and sewing one to each of the fronts of the jacket, right sides together, before clipping the seam allowances to the ends of the stitching and flipping those pieces to the inside before edge stitching. After that I treat those pieces and the front as one and then sew in the back of the pockets as directed.

 I like how clean the finish inside the pocket seems when I sew it this way, instead of finishing the pocket openings with just a strip of fabric or bias tape, and also it seems like it should be sturdier with that entire extra layer of fabric.

 

 Not that I'll probably ever put anything in these pockets.  But they'll be sturdy.

The New Look pattern calls for a simple lining, and the Simplicity calls for applying some twill or bias  tape over the neck band seam allowance that remains visible between the facings.  I did neither, but it is serged.

I did sew some strips of selvedge to stabilize to the shoulder seams, which I (of course) proceeded to edge stitch and top stitch.

The main features of this jacket are the appliqués, which I made specifically for this project.

The front patch is 10-31 for the date of Halloween. The numbers are reverse applique, with some of the orange fabric of the sleeves under the circle of fabric cut from the center of the gray beret I made a few months ago.  I drew the numbers fairly quickly using a see-through ruler and a refusal to go back and alter the first numbers I drew (the 1 and 0) to make the third number (the 3) look better.

 The feature is the jack o'lantern appliqué on the back. I cut the basic pumpkin shape freehand, then used that to cut the same shape from the yellow lace.  I cut the stem free form, then layered everything over a piece of sweatshirt fleece (same as the leftover beret fabric used for the front patch.) I put heavy embroidery stabilizer under that (I also put the heavy embroidery stabilizer under the 10-31 appliqué) and zigzagged through all layers.  I drew the face with tailor's chalk before zigzagging around it and then cutting away the orange layer (which is also fuzzy side up, unlike the sleeves) to make that area reverse appliqué.  I finished by zigzagging around the pumpkin to create an even line to trim around for the gray border.

 

I attached the appliqués by zigzagging with a longer stitch over the outer lines of zigzagging in the appliqués themselves.

It's far from refined, and that's just fine.

 So much about this project is Not Me, but I do make exceptions for jack o'lanterns.