Variance

So I worked out fit on the skirt in the last post, transferring the amount I took out of the garment to the pattern, and then I ignored the basic idea and made a markedly different skirt this time.

Because the cloth I wanted to use had a big print, and I didn't have a lot of it, so I wouldn't be able to do proper pattern matching across that front seam--or across a back seam, if the zipper moved there--I decided to put the zipper in a side seam.  But I also absolutely wanted to keep the slash pockets over there, too.

There's a lot of internet that will tell you how to add a (usually invisible) zipper alongside a side seam pocket, but I didn't find anything about installing a zipper next to a slash pocket.  Granted, I didn't look that far into the depths of the search results, but, now that I've done it, I'm guessing it's more because it's not actually a challenge to figure out.  Not that "this is incredibly easy" stops some tutorials from being made--or even that what some people fine easy really is easy for everybody.

And it probably would have been easier if I hadn't also decided to make it a lapped zipper...something I haven't sewn for a  few years...  I got it right the second try.

It really is just a matter of "sew in the slash pockets, then  treat the front and pocket area as one while you do the whole lapped zipper thing."  I did have to add a bit of ribbon to extend the seam allowance on the lapped side, so I suppose you could add the "make the seam allowance 1" where the zipper goes" changes.  I might remember that in the future.  If not, I have plenty of ribbon.

And here's the pattern I didn't want to break up

It's thrifted and the selvedge says interior decor things, but here we are.

This is also considerably less A-line than the last skirt--the New Look pattern I'd used to get that skirt flare correct also had sheath shirt views.  I considered the fact that the back of the worked-on skirt was 15" and looked at the measurements given on the pattern and reasoned that I have a pattern size 16 back side.

Which I immediately second-guessed and decided to make it a bit wider and so include the seam allowance on the fold, instead of cutting it with the fold aligned with the center back line.  And guess what!  The back ended up 1¼" too wide!  And I didn't think to check until after the waistband was in!  And there was no way I was gonna pick out all the waistband and side seam stitches to correct it the proper way!

So I went with the improper way

which was "Pick out a bit of the stitch-in-the-ditch that held down the waistband fold, above the areas between each of the sets of darts, then insert some elastic in that center back area and stitch very thoroughly through all layers and elastic before stitch-in-the-ditching again to close."  It doesn't look great when worn, but...there's a lot of baggage with the way this area of my body looks overall, so what difference is a bit more not-great gonna make.  Yay.

Since the back of the skirt is 5" narrower than the front of the skirt, the pockets once again wrap around when clipped to this hanger

But, again, this seam is right where it should be when on my body.

And here's another look at the pocket on the zipper side

Yes, I know, technically, the lap is on the wrong side, potentially exposing the zipper to the front of the skirt, but that's OK.

I had some red buttons that matched really well, but this fake wood print plastic button was more...as...thematically appropriate

and yessssss the waistband bulges above the button.  Not only did I not use the keyhole button cam, but I didn't even interface this waistband.   I mean, that's not the least of the sins on this thing.

But I did almost take some care on the hem!

I serged the raw edge, then stitched on the seam tape (which was salvaged from something else) before pressing up 1½" all around.  The bobbin ran out in the process of sewing on the seam tape.  The first thing I did was switch to the remains of the purple bobbin from the last skirt, then, when that ran out, I grabbed a bobbin of lighter weight warm brown.  With the upper tension fairly low and the lighter weight of that thread, the blind stitching turned out OK. 

So.  There's another skirt.