Monday, November 23, 2020

Shimmer Satin Bomber Jacket

 So.  New Look 6120.  I had forgotten how fast it could be to make it without getting excessive with the fabric.  I decided I would make it "straight," and I almost did, but couldn't help complicating it just a bit.

I had a few pieces of satin and coordinating ribbing and waffled over which color to make first.  Eventually decided on black, then immediately decided not to use black ribbing for the cuffs/waistband/collar, instead going for a bit of turquoise and purple mylar shot novelty knit, which made me decide to go with a dark blue zipper and lining


Pretty straightforward from the front...


The lining fabric is what was left over from the Halloween patchwork jacket, and, as a left-over, it was a tiny bit lacking, so I ended up filling in a small area


That's on the sleeve cap and it ended up innocuous enough


It's innocuous even when it's in focus, too.

The rest of the assembly was completely unchallenging


The satin is reflecting a green light, there's no color shift or iridescence to the fabric...which is a shimmer satin, so there were Very Early 2000s Feelings while sewing it

Even with my "mark it with a straight pin" trick, I still managed to whiff the lower band seam alignment on either side of the zipper, but it wasn't bad enough that I felt a need to pick it out and re-do one side or the other.

 I managed to refrain from too much top stitching


but the pocket stitching did show me the appeal of quilted satin that manifested in the 1970s


I made the pocket bags from a nice, somewhat heavy, natural fiber remnant that might? be linen? ramie?

And now we get to where I made things more complicated.

Part of the reason I decided to make the bands in a not-black knit was, due to the way I ignored the pattern cutting layout, I had enough of the black shimmer satin left to make another iteration of this jacket, so I still had a chance to do all black (nothing's certain.) So.  If I wasn't going to make this all-black after all, then I opened myself to the possibility of putting an appliqué on the back.

Which then led to a while waffling over what.  It needed to echo the turquoise and purple of the knit, it needed to use fabrics I had on hand, and it needed to be something I could stand to stitch when the jacket was already halfway constructed (as opposed to, y'know, sewing it onto the back piece before beginning construction, which I would have done if I had realized I would be doing an appliqué when I started the project.)

I finally got an idea I liked, grabbed a dinner plate, traced some circles and curves, then cut some shapes freehand.  The embroidery stabilizer stash was accessed, the top thread was changed from black to something approaching the knit's turquoise, and the stitch to a short length and narrow zigzag (so narrow I was still able to use the straight stitch foot.  I do that a lot.)



I (pretty obviously) didn't use any fusibles, because I didn't want to deal with possibly melting the lamé.  Or the satin.  Or the lace.  I later looked it up to see if you can use fusible webbing on lamé, and the one website I looked at assured us that we could if we just used a pressing cloth, but their successful results still looked like the iron was too hot and puckered the lamé just a bit.  But. Maybe I was being too harsh, since I had already finished the appliqué.  I have no idea how durable the lamé will be.  Guess I'll find out!






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