Monday, November 30, 2020

Moto Mauve

 One of the bargain fabric mill end precuts I got from Walmart precovid was a pale mauve with gray heather stripes french terry knit.  I'm not sure if it's 100% cotton, but it's close.  I recently decided it was time to figure out what to make from it.

Since mauve is leaning toward purple, I asked the kiddo if he'd like something made from it, but he said it wasn't purple enough (which was why I asked, instead of surprising him.)  So, then!  Something for me.  I initially leaned toward a simple sweatshirt, but figured I'd get more use from a(nother) light jacket.  For that, I Initially leaned toward a simple sweatshirt-style raglan sleeve jacket

but...you know me.  So!  Time to revisit Kwik Sew 3764.  Last time I made that, it was in a color shifty green woven synthetic, and size large. Definitely going down to a medium for this one, and with the longer length/plain bottom edge view, despite the fact that that view? has no?? pockets???  Easy enough to rectify, at least.


 One of the slight deviations I did with this was to use some thrift grab bag, heavily synthetic, lightweight twill for the interfacing.  It's very green.


I am still finding little bits of very green fiber stuck to things.

Oh--I'll show you, this fabric was such a mill end that it still had part of the original job lot identification sticker on it

2011! Had the whole mill end sat in a warehouse the entire time until being processed into the Walmart bits in 2019?

Folded under was the designation of the color as Light Mauve, but the fiber content was completely missing.  It feels very cottony; maybe I'll do a burn test, someday.

I did reinforce the shoulder seams, to stabilize against knit stretch


For the most part, none of the inner edges were finished.  The facing edges were serged, to keep the very green synthetic from fraying, and I had the dubious idea of a vague seam binding treatment for the hem.  We'll get to that.

I hung it up after basting on the upper collar, and I still wasn't sure if the whole project was a good idea or not

Kwik Sew 3764's construction is really straightforward, View B even more so than View A, even with my deviation into borrowing New Look 6120's pockets...which I also deviate from, by using a second pocket bag to turn the upper opening, instead of a small folded strip like the pattern calls for.

I normally do that because I believe it's going to make a stronger pocket, as well as hide any raw edges that would result from just happening to make the pattern from patchwork...or, in the case of this project, protecting me from feeling the loopy side of the cloth.  I know a lot of people like french terry all around, but I have never ever liked the loopy side.

So: the finished jacket.

Once again, camera angles and clingy cloth have conspired to make it look like the sleeves are different lengths and/or the lower hem is extremely angled.  Everything is as it should be.

The pattern matching was more successful in some areas than in others.

As usual, it's not a big issue when it's unzipped

I mean, the stripes don't align super well at the inset zipper, either, but the zipper itself helps hide that.

What's going on with the stripes on the lower back, though...

one of those 'not seeing the forest for the trees' situations--every stripe was lined up with an other stripe at the seams, but something went askew somewhere.  Probably a result of cutting on the fold instead of individually.  I can live with it.

Besides, it's better than the inside of the lower hem

This picture does not include the really badly sewn/resewn/still bad part.  I mean, yeah, it includes a badly sewn/resewn part, but not the worst one.  Admitting mistakes does not mandate sharing their photographic evidence.

I sewed the facing edges along the seam allowances of their corresponding shell pieces, as well as at the shoulders and in the center back.

The twill tape I used to stabilize the hem is ¾" wide, so the hem stitching ended up wider than the cuff stitching

If I had any idea, at the time I was sewing the cuff hems, that I would be using the twill tape to help finish the waist, I would have made the cuff hems deeper.  I'm not going to let that difference bother me enough to pick out and redo the cuffs.

Which means: another project finished.

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