Saturday, November 2, 2019

It's Curtains Again

This time it's a single lace curtain panel, turned into another attempt at an under dress...that I added pockets to, because it looked cute over the clothes I was wearing when I tried it on.  If a layer might potentially be on or near the top, it needs pockets.  Why even sew if you're not gonna add pockets?


 I started with Butterick 6470, the shirt/dress view of which I have used for many bodices this year, with gathered skirts added.  I cut it longer, and once again pivoted the side under the arm hole, to give plenty of extra width like I did with the last under dress I made--this time, though, I decided that was good enough and didn't add any additional ruffles.

That did lead to an ever-so-slight handkerchief hem, because I wanted to maintain the lace's edge



 Which is also how I did the sleeve edges (can't really call them "hems" can we?)


 I did do the facings properly (mostly--no interfacing, although I know I could have used tulle or something similarly sheer)
 I stitched the facings first near the edge of the neckline, then much farther in, then once again about a quarter inch from that line of stitching.  Then I carefully trimmed away the very small remaining bit of the facings.  It's not super-refined, but it works.

 I did decide to do french seams for the sides--again, not for refinement, but because I didn't relish the idea of stitching, then top stitching down the seam allowances, then trimming the remaining loose bits.  They're lazy french seams--I sewed the first pass at 1/4" and then the second stitching at 3/8" (roughly) so no trimming.
 And of course I didn't press a thing.

Then I tried it on, over what I was already wearing, and that's when I decided to add pockets.

Now...I'm not fond of patch pockets, but I was, at the moment, even less fond of the idea of picking out the double-sewn side seams to insert bag pockets, so I could live with patch pockets.

I cut them freehand out of the hemmed edged of the curtain, so I wouldn't have to concern myself with making those hems myself, and I was very happy to discover that the lace was easy to fold and pin around the curves in preparation of being sewn on to the dress.
 I pinned and sewed the first pocket, then used the transparency of the lace to get the second pocket in place.  A see-through ruler inside the dress allowed me to see where things should be while providing a surface to slide pins into only the layers of cloth that needed to be pinned.
 And since I was applying the pockets after the rest of the dress was constructed, I took advantage of that and positioned the pockets over the side seams.
I stitched twice around both pockets, once near the edge and once at whatever-my-presser-foot's-right-side's-width-is from that.

Here's how a pocket looks from the front


 and here's how it wraps around to the back


And, back view of the whole thing, with the slight handkerchiefing of the hem a bit more obvious.
 I figure, if it bothers me, I can make some tucks across the side seams to draw the hem up on the sides.

Eventually.

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