Elven Moto Jacket

 So.  Vogue 1714.

It...actually wasn't that hard.

 

 even if I probably top stitched twice as much as the directions called for.

 

 because that's what I do.

 I actually mostly followed the directions for this one, with my main deviations being the top stitching, adding pockets

and machine stitching the lining to the cuffs

Also, technically, I deviated on the zipper, too, because I just happened to have a 22" zipper in a suitable color (although, yeah, heavier than it should have been), so I didn't have to shorten a 24" zipper as directed.

22" may still have been a touch too long, so the bottom hem seam ended up being closer to 3/8" than 5/8", but I consider the double top stitching a fair compensation in seam security  

And yes of course the very bottom edges don't align perfectly on each side of the zipper, and, yes, of course, they probably would have if I hadn't made an effort to sew as close as possible to the zipper bottom on one side but hadn't thought about doing that on the other.

It's still closer than I got the same areas on my first attempt at Burda 6800.

I was determined to make this jacket entirely from my stash.  The shell fabric is a medium brushed polyester tricot that's pretending to be suede--a fabric that was fairly trendy about 20 years ago, and that's how long this stuff has been lurking in my stash.  I decided to use it for this because it's not at all my style anymore, but I knew it would produce a nice-looking garment anyway while giving me a chance to figure out any issues that might need to be addressed before using a More Me fabric.

Since this isn't at all a Me kind of color scheme, I was very limited in potential thread matches.  Using so much top stitching gave an excuse to use a contrast thread, and it was nice to discover that I had a thread that was a pretty close match to the zipper tape, but I didn't have a lot of it, so I used the ecru in the top thread and the dark gray in the bobbin.  I did fill the bobbin with the ecru for the final rounds of stitching on the edges, since that was the only area where both sides of the stitches would be visible.

It's always nerve-wracking to top stitch around turned back lapels, because the visible sides swap where the lapels turn back, so there needs to be *ugh* precision to make sure both sides are spaced properly.  Even the side you can't see while you're sewing.

I only had to pick out and re-stitch the lapel edge once due to stitch spacing deviating just enough to look fine on the top but completely terrible on the bottom.  And then I had to pick out and re-stitch the same area of the second row of top stitching because the bobbin ran out and I was not going to back tack in such a prominent area.  Remember: the key to appearing to sew well is figuring out how to handle your mistakes.

I also picked out the first row of edge stitching along the waist seams, because it wobbled over the intersecting seams...and I hadn't noticed how bad it looked until I did the row of top stitching.  So I picked out the first row and re-sewed it and it's fine now

Like Burda 6800, the sleeve seams don't line up with the back yoke seam.  I guess that's just how it is.

Everyone who sews finds issues with what they make, so I'm side-eying that zipper quite a bit, but I know it looks fine at a "stay at least six feet away from me" distance

Unlike the deep stash sourcing for the shell fabric, the lining is a Walmart mill end pre-cut find from only a few months ago.  It's polyester color shift, with a brown warp and aqua weft

and, yes, I machine stitched the lining opening closed instead of hand stitching.   Other than leaving that part open to turn everything right-side-out, the lining is made exactly the same as the shell--well...with less top stitching.  I was good and pressed everything, too.

Oh!  The pattern directions want shoulder pads in this, too.  Maybe in the future.

I cut this in size 12 grading to 14 at the waist.  It fits, but there's not a lot of ease, so next time will probably be size 14 grading to 16.  And maybe in a fabric that doesn't make it look like a movie costume?