Thursday, August 14, 2025

A Different Tank Top Pattern

 I thrifted Simplicity Super Saver 8143, from 1987, a forgotten number of years ago. 

It always looked useful, but I rarely had the right kind of fabric for it.  Once I finally had some, I discovered the tissue had been cut in size 6 (for the top; the skirt was cut in size 10, and I have yet to have any reason to concern myself over that) and despaired, since that was so small.

The recent bout of experimenting with the tank top from New Look 6766 led me to re-evaluate the idea of "correct size" when it comes to a tank top sewing pattern.  Stretch makes a big difference.

And there's loads of stretch in a rib knit, with plenty left of the pale peach rib knit I got from the craft thrift store about two years ago, so I went ahead and cut that in the available size.  I did compensate a bit in sewing by making the side seams only about ¼".  I probably didn't need to do that, because, again: stretch.

But, hey, my main reason for wanting a tank top like this is to layer in winter, and this will certainly work for that.

The pattern directs you to just fold the edges to the inside and stitch them down.  We all know I'm absolutely not going to do that.

I trimmed the neckline and arm openings by about ¼" and attached ribbing bands that were cut at 2" wide and sewn with a 5/8" seam allowance. 

 

I initially cut them 18" long, but that seemed like it was going to be too long to give proper ribbing snugness, so I trimmed them to about 16".  That worked well enough for the neckline, but the arm openings could have used more trimming.  I didn't, of course, figure this out until I tried it on after doing all of the double top stitching, and finding the vast expanse of extra width fabric flapping in the under arm area.

I pinned the excess on one side and used that to cut it off on both sides.  Then I picked out the stitching on the edge of the bands--all of the stitching: edge stitching, top stitching, seam stitching, serging--so I could open the bands back up and sew a new seam.  Then I sewed up the trimmed sides of the body before sewing the loose bit of the ribbing back in place, followed by doing the serging, edge stitching, and top stitching again.  The back tacking is visible.  It's fine.

I cranked the upper tension to about 7 to sew the hem, so the bobbin thread would sit flat on the top of the fabric, especially with the fabric being stretched so much while stitching.  (I suspect this need to sometimes increase the upper tension to make the bobbin thread lay smooth is a quirk of my machine.)

 

The appearance of this hem definitely benefit from being pressed.  I'm curious if being washed and dried will change anything, too.

I serged the side seams, and the ribbing band seams, but not the lower raw edge before being hemmed.  It wasn't distractingly irregular. 


So, I guess this is another pattern for a basic item that has been unlocked for me, for when I have suitable amounts of appropriate fabric that I'm not squirreling away for ribbing needs, sometime in the unknown future.




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