Tuesday, November 29, 2022

Intermediate

 I don't usually post projects in progress, but I started my first try at a McCall's 8121

and decided early in the process that I wanted to add decorative patches--I had a specific style from my patch stash in mind, but, when I got them out, I quickly realized that a completely different type of patch would suit this project better

but

I had only three of those, and my Sense of Overdoing Things did not find that acceptable, so I'm pausing the jacket construction to make some more patches, which I will machine sew to the jacket shell while it's still able to be laid out relatively flat, and without having to avoid accidentally stitching through the lining.

And what a lining!

 

 

 The cat print is from the Walmart mill end precut bins, and it is so much not my kind of fabric--it's so synthetic and sheer and brown, not to mention being the higher Walmart mill end precut price at 3 yards for $8--but the cats definitely caught my eye.  I resisted though--I did!  And then I went back a few weeks later and it was still there and here we are.

A few months ago I realized I could use it for lining and quickly coordinated it with a black/ivory/tan wool, and from there decided it could be a good combination for a first attempt at this moto pattern (to go along with Burda 6800 and Kwik Sew 3764)

 I have all the basic units constructed, mostly, and ready to lay out potential patch placement

And, yes, I intentionally flipped the front zipper orientation, which, since the pattern pieces for that area are cut individually and not symmetrically on the fold, was a procedure that was easy, but I still kept second-guessing everything I cut, so it didn't seem easy.

I already know that, if I make this pattern again, I may very well consider making the pockets with an exposed zipper, like the other moto jackets I've made, because my welt abilities are...shaky

I do appreciate that the pocket lining has a bit of shell fabric placed behind the opening, so, from a distance, there's no stark contrast between the fashion fabric and the lining, because my welt pocket abilities are way too inexperienced to hide the lining on their own here.

The edge stitching all around is my usual stuff, though.

The sleeve zipper insertion...not so great.  I don't think I agree with the mere quarter inch of seam allowance/fabric to press under here, and would happily extend that in the future, especially since it would also give a larger amount to fold up at the top, where the seam bulk is.  I repeat my usual mantra of "No-one will be close enough to notice."

The jacket body has no side seams, so the sleeves will have to be set in the round, but I've left the other sleeve seams unsewn for now, so they can remain flat if I decide they get some patches, too.

Even though I'm somewhat dubious about some of the construction details of this jacket, I do like that it has the most interesting back details of the moto jackets I've sewn so far, with completely superfluous shoulder vents.


But the back also includes a lower band detail that very intentionally does not align with the rest of the lower band details, and my brain Does Not Like That.  Reviews of this jacket have criticized the lower band arrangement of this pattern in general, so, if I like the overall fit of this, I may try making a future version with a proper bottom band, instead of the mock band details, but, whoo, that's a lotta little changes, so the fit will have to be pretty spectacular

and I won't know that until after I make the patches. So.









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