Lattice

About two years ago, a visit to the craft thrift store found a length of very 1990s rayon, which I bought after being overwhelmed by nostalgia, but with no clear plans for it.  I honestly thought I'd make it into a button up shirt, because I could very much imagine that's something I would have worn in high school.

And, after making the previous few simple shirts, I was ready to make this one!  So I got out the fabric and...didn't want to make it into a shirt.  I briefly considered a dress, but I'm not the right shape for anything that seemed suitable for that fabric in that quantity.

I've also wanted to make some simple dirndl type skirts, and I realized that the nice heavy swish of the rayon would be very good for that.  The fact that it's predominantly white did make me pause, for various reasons, but...that swish was just so nice...

The thought process then went on to "Well, it definitely needs pockets," followed by "There's not enough of this fabric to make self pockets, so I'd need to use something else" and "Any pockets would be clearly visible through the white fabric, as well as any underwear," so that's how I ended up also lining it.

This means I still haven't made a simple dirndl style skirt, but I did make this one!

 

I am surprised by how much I like it.

Most of the pieces for the skirt were just ripped along the grain lines—I ripped the cut edges to make them even (and to confirm that the print was nowhere near on grain), ripped along the length near one selvedge to make the waistband, then ripped the remaining piece in half at the center between the cut edges.

I ripped the lining fabric a bit shorter than the shell fabric, then cut the pockets from one edge of the lining pieces, to make it less voluminous...and...y'know...to make the pockets. 

I chose beige fabric for the lining because it is somewhat close to my skin tone, and also because I had used just enough of the ivory fabric in the petticoat that there wasn't enough to make the lining the length I wanted.  I had actually thought I would use the petticoat fabric for the lining, so I started making the petticoat to see how much of that fabric I'd have left to line this skirt.  When the result was "not enough," I poked around the stash and found the beige, which also worked because I had a lot more of it than I thought.  I'm not even sure why I have beige fabric to begin with, but I've been keeping it because it seemed like it might be useful someday. (And now I'm wondering about making a beige petticoat.)

 

I did all the hems with the (roughly) quarter inch hem roller, and I made the decision not to care about how consistent the results were.  This skirt is full, swishy, and printed horribly off grain, so there's no need to worry about a hem or two being perfect or not. 

I did sew the pockets so they go through the lining to the inside of the skirt, and the way the lining is folded around things, so that it can otherwise stay separate from the side seams, is awkward, but, hey, it will never be seen.

 

I gathered the tops of the lining and shell after sewing those side seams, so I had to do a little finessing to get them to the proper length to fit the the waistband, but I managed to get the ruffler set pretty close to correct for each one, which is always nice.  I have also started (when I remember) to use the tex 24 thread, which I bought  f i v e  k i l o m e t e r s  for doing patchwork, to do the ruffling, and I think the ruffler is happier with it, too.

 

The skirt was finished by inserting ¾" elastic into the waistband.  It probably technically should be finished by hand sewing the opening for the elastic closed, but...  It's fine.