Tuesday, March 18, 2025

Teal Shine Bomber

Using New Look 6120 once again, and hearkening back to the first time I used it by once again making the shell from a foiled synthetic knit.

...although I may have gotten very slightly excessive with the pockets...

New Look 6120, as given, has a chest patch pocket with a flap closure, which I have never made.  This one is the welted flap pocket from Know Me 2011.  And then I stacked a zippered welt pocket on top of it.

I did take precautions, drawing out all the stitching and alignment lines on the interfacing before sewing a stitch.

 

I still managed to install it crooked.  It's fine.  The only reason I wanted to put the zip pocket above the flap pocket was because I managed to cut the pieces for the flap pocket so that either side ended up very close to the print where the pocket would be placed, and I decided to put the pocket flap leopard print up, and use the zipper to break up the leopard print area above.  I probably didn't need to worry about it, because this print is fairly compact, once you really look at it.  Not, as it turns out, compact enough that I could easily cut a pattern-matched pocket flap without having to dive in far from the cut edges.  But.  Compact enough that the leopard print section occurs fairly frequently (it's on the top of the sleeve near the pockets, too.)

I initially thought I would make a traditional denim jacket style jacket from this fabric--I still think that would be a really cool garment, but I don't think it wold be a me garment, so I went with the tried and true bomber.  Making a bomber meant I needed ribbing, and I was happy to discover that the "reduced price because it has faded areas" purple ribbing I got from Fabric Mart--in a separate order from this foiled knit--matched one of the purple tones in the foil pretty well.  Then I got into my zippers and found an 18" dark purple separating zipper; the 13/14 size of this pattern calls for a 16" zipper, so I added some length to the front and back when I cut them out (I can shorten a zipper, I'd just rather not.)  

 

This gave some more room on the front to add the diagonal welt zipper pockets, using the dark purple zippers I found when looking for a short zipper to use over the flap pocket. I did hesitate briefly about using all of my dark purple super lightweight vintage zippers in this one project, but, enh, that's what they're for.

And I had dark purple lining fabric in my stash, and it was close enough.  I learned long ago that it's challenging to find purples that exactly match, and, considering none of this was planned, I think I did pretty well. 

The lining is left open at the center front, which allows easy sewing of the waistband and cuffs--I do follow the directions in this pattern for sewing the lining to the cuffs, not only when making this pattern, but also whenever possible.

 

The lining is closed up by sewing on the zipper.  I did not follow the pattern directions for that.  I sewed each half of the zipper tape to the fronts like trim, then folded the tape to the inside and top stitched along the fold, followed by trimming the edges of the fabric to be narrower than the zipper tape, then top stitching again, to sew down the edge of the zipper tape and to conceal the fabric edge.  It creates a fairly clean finish, as long as you don't look too close at all the lines of stitching.  Having a reasonably well-matched purple thread helped, too.

Since I was largely improvising the zipper pocket placement, they may not align perfectly, but everything looks fine when the jacket is open, which is how I'm most likely to wear it.

I resisted the temptation to put some big appliqué on the back, so you can see how quickly the pattern repeats.  You can also see, if you scrutinize things like I do, that the pattern printed on the foil repeats fairly closely to the pattern of foil as applied to the base fabric, which is something the foil print on the purple base doesn't do.


I am very happy with this jacket, although I ended up not adoring this fabric as much as the fabric I used in the previous jacket (at the link above.)  There's still a decent amount of this fabric left, and I've made arrangements to (eventually) send it to a friend whose style it suits more.

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