Sunday, December 19, 2021

A...Test?

 A few months ago, I made a button up shirt that I liked, but wasn't quite what I wanted it to be.  So, I called in some parts from another pattern and things looked promising, but weren't yet what I was hoping for, either.  I traced the further modifications from the collar donor pattern, then...made a bunch of other things.

I recently purchased some fabric from JoAnn--yes, I know, me? buying fabric that isn't random? and that costs more than $2 per yard?  And I want to make it into a button up shirt, but didn't want to jump in with the untested pattern modification on the good fabric (again, I know--me??)  I decided to use some of the "sorted out to give away early 2020, didn't, then sorted again in late 2021, kept some, gave the rest away" fabric and make a...test...version.  (I'm pedantic enough not to use the term 'wearable muslin,' sorry.)

I didn't have enough of the rayon blend to make the entire shirt, but I was able to complete it by using almost all of the rest of the lace left over from the quick Halloween shirt


 Using up fabric is always nice.


This shirt is definitely an amalgamation of patterns: Burda 7831 for the bodice and front bands; McCall's 7575 for the collar, collar stand, and neckline to sew them to; McCall's 5675 for the sleeves; improvisation with whatever was left to make the cuffs.


Even though I did edge stitch a lot, I still restrained myself from edge stitching absolutely everything

 I also restrained myself from top stitching alongside the edge stitching.  That extra row of stitching seemed too casual for the slinky fabric and lace combination.


There were still several areas where I wasn't happy with the edge stitching process, picked the thread out, and started over.  I tend to keep the threads I pick out intact--yeah, it's probably a lot more trouble, but it also means fewer tiny bits of thread to deal with.  And then I can see exactly how much of my work I undid and redid...

The 1977 McCall's sleeves fit almost perfectly into the 2008 Burda armscyes--I didn't have to deal with easing out much fullness at all.  Always nice.

It took two tries to get the hem sewn, too.  The first try was too deep and missed a lot of the folded edge inside--I top stitched the hem from the outside, so it was easy to miss it completely.  I caught the error pretty early, picked out the stitching, adjusted my magnet depth stops to be even closer to the presser foot edge, and started again.

It still wandered off the edge just a bit in one spot.  At nearly the other end of stitching.  Yeah.  At that point I was ready to be finished, so restitched it without picking anything out.  It's by the side seam, so not near any areas of focus, which means it's obscured enough.

And I changed my serger thread for this project!  I no longer have any dark pink serger thread, but I have many spools of red, which is close enough.

I feel like I should be taken aback by the roping going on with the hem, but...gives it that mass-produced touch...

And the completely innocuous back view

I think it'll work for the good fabric!  And many more shirts beyond.


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